Inlet Patchbox:

Before I began the inletting process, I had to prepare the patchbox by annealing the brass.  The brass was heated up till it glowed red and dropped it into a container of cold water. I did the same to the side plates, too.  By doing so, this softens the brass so it can be bent to conform to shape of the stock.  I placed the patchbox onto a slab of hard maple I had rounded out the inner surface to match the contour of my stock.  Then I used one of my wooden mallets and placed it on top of the patchbox and hit it with another mallet. This bent the patch box.  Due the the hinge, I did the finial and then the patchbox lid separately by hanging each piece off the end the wood mold.  

Using the Golden Mean calibers, I positioned the patchbox onto the buttstock.  With the pieces bent, I located where I wanted to place the mounting screws into the finial. Drilled 1/16" holes thru the final. Located the patchbox onto the rifle.  I traced with a pencil where the hinge needed to be inletted. Then I carved out the wood for the hinge into the stock. 

Then I beveled the inside of the finial for the wood center inlay for a nice tight fit.  Proceeded to position the finial onto the stock. Clamped it in place and then drilled 1/16" holes thru the finial into the stock.  Removed the finial, enlarged the holes in the finial for #4 screws.  After that, I then countersinked the holes for the screws to be semi-flush with the brass finial.  Also, the slots in the screws were deepened for my screw driver. 

Removed the buttplate from the rifle, since I will be inletted below the surface of the buttplate. 

I screwed the finial onto the stock and using my knife, I cut around the finial and along the patchbox lid. (Note, I de-soldered and removed the steel cam from the bottom of the lid. This made it easier to inlet.)

Here the finial and lid are inlet into the stock.

Here is a handy little tool I made to hole my screws so I can ensure I put the same screws back into their original holes when I have to remove an reinstall them several times.

Next I inlet the two side plates using the same process, whilst holding the side plates tight up against the lid.  After then are inletted, I scribe a line along the bottom of each plate where the end of the buttstock is. Then I use a jeweler's saw to cut along this line to remove the excess brass. You can also cut the place roughly with a hacksaw and then have to reshape the side plate later.  Holding on the brass plate, you can use a metal grinder and remove material down to your line, too.

Here are the two side plates inletted and the butt plate reinstalled. 

Using a triangular file, cut down vertically on either side of the lid recess on the buttplate. This will allow the lid to seat properly.

I will then seat the lid to check if the grooves are at the correct depth.

I then trace a line on top of the lid indicating where I need to remove the excess brass on the lid. (Note, I leave a little excess, since I intend to tap down the edge of the lid to the buttplate. 

Now I'm ready to drill out the inside of the patchbox area.  I measured in 1/2" from the buttplate and back 1/2" from the hinge.  I used  7/8" auger bit.

Using chisels and knives, I squared up the recess hole.  Now the recess is ~3" long, 7/8" wide and 3/4" deep.

Hoot AL Rifle Shop

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